Beauty Vanguard

Under the Light: The Scientific Truth Behind Gelish

For years, gelish has symbolized a new form of quiet power, the kind that keeps everything under control. A flawless surface, a promise that does not chip away. But the beauty that lasts for weeks also leaves a deeper trace than we imagine. What once belonged to the salon routine is now being studied in laboratories from California to London and Tokyo.

By Claudia Valdez

The light that cures and also marks

The UV or LED lamps used to cure gel polish emit ultraviolet-A radiation, the same wavelength that penetrates deep into the skin and is linked to premature aging and DNA damage.

In 2023, a study by the University of California, San Diego revealed that a single 20-minute gel-lamp session can cause between 20 and 30 percent of cell death, while repeated exposure can raise that number to around 70 percent. Researchers also detected mutations similar to those observed in melanoma cases, sparking a global conversation about the cumulative effects of UV exposure on the skin.

Another publication from the same year confirmed that cell viability decreases by about 35 percent after one session, although using sunscreen on the hands significantly reduces the impact. The science is not meant to alarm, but to awaken awareness: the risk lies not in the shine itself, but in how often we choose that light.

Beyond the surface

The damage does not end with the skin. The gelish cycle, application, sealing, filing, and removal, can alter the nail’s natural structure, depriving it of oxygen and weakening its protective layer.

A medical review published in 2020 by the U.S. National Library of Medicine analyzed more than 500 women who regularly used gel polish. About 21 percent reported adverse effects, over half experienced itching or burning sensations, and nearly a third had more fragile or brittle nails. Specialists concluded that frequent use can impair the nail’s regenerative capacity and alter its texture over time.

Excessive acetone, aggressive filing, and prolonged exposure to acrylates,  the chemical compounds that give gel polish its resistance, can also cause allergic or inflammatory reactions, especially in sensitive skin.

Hands that tell the story of time

In 2018, the Spanish Academy of Dermatology reported a rise in allergic contact dermatitis caused by acrylates, both in clients and nail technicians. These reactions are not immediate; the immune system registers each exposure until one day it responds with redness, itching, or irritation.

Since then, medical associations have recommended moderation, certified products, and protection against UV radiation. Reports from Harvard Medical School and JAMA Dermatology agree: an occasional manicure poses no major risk, but continuous exposure over the years may lead to cumulative damage.

The skin on the hands, one of the thinnest areas of the body,  is also one of the most neglected: it receives the light, but rarely the protection.

Beauty that breathes

The answer is not to give up, but to choose wisely.
Apply sunscreen before each session.
Wear UV-filter gloves while curing.
Alternate breaks between applications.
Choose acrylate-free formulas and remove polish gently.
Taking care of your hands does not take away glamour; it elevates it.

True luxury is not the one that lasts longest, but the one that does not compromise the skin to achieve it.

A new era of informed beauty

The conversation around gelish is not about aesthetics or morality, but about awareness. The body has memory, and beauty, like science, evolves through understanding. Research does not come to cancel the glow, but to teach us how to use it better.

Perfection is still possible, only now we know what it costs to keep it. And perhaps, in that new understanding, lies the real luxury:  knowing the light before turning it on.